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Tolar Grande to Belen

Tolar Grande to Belen

Now I’m back in Tolar Grande and I fancy some creature comforts, such as ice-cream, beer and a hot shower (although not all at the same time).  From glimpses of my waistline, I can see that the gentle folds of flesh are gone, and my ribcage is starting to look...
Salta to Llullaillaco

Salta to Llullaillaco

The bus from Salta to San Antonio de los Cobres is as beaten up and dusty as you’d expect a bus travelling along beaten-up and dusty roads to be.  My bike’s safely stowed underneath.  The driver seems very obliging when I’m loading my gear,...
San Pedro to Salta

San Pedro to Salta

The definition of an “itinerary” is “a planned route or journey that’s hopelessly optimistic and will need changing almost immediately”.  It’s therefore most surprising that we’ve arrived in San Pedro de Atacama on time, five weeks after leaving La...
Laguna Colorada to San Pedro

Laguna Colorada to San Pedro

At some point the previous day, we entered the Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina de Eduardo Avaroa, named after one of the Bolivian “heroes” of the War of the Pacific in the 19th century (which Bolivia lost, along with its pacific coast).  This national park includes...
San Juan to Arbol de Piedra

San Juan to Arbol de Piedra

Although I’m tempted to fast-forward to Laguna Colorada (gorgeous, incredible, fantastic), the story would be incomplete without the bit after we leave the Salar de Uyuni (windy, exhausting, nightmare).  For us, this part is a five-day journey bridging the gap...