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Puerto Natales to Ushuaia

Puerto Natales to Ushuaia

It’s 675km from Puerto Natales to Ushuaia or, in old money, around 1.5 million cubits.  This is a fair old chariot ride but, with fresh horses, doable in five or six days.  Unfortunately, my horses are set for the knacker’s yard, and braying in protest as I load up...
El Calafate to Puerto Natales

El Calafate to Puerto Natales

It’s quite possible there are days, in Patagonia, when the wind doesn’t blow.  It’s also possible the wind might decide one morning, just for a change, to blow from the north, east or south, rather than the west.  But based on the last six weeks, glaciers could...
O’Higgins to El Calafate

O’Higgins to El Calafate

The Carretera Austral officially ends at Puerto Bahamondes on Lago O’Higgins, a further 7km down the road.  From there, it’s a one-to-two-day journey across lakes, gravel roads and a forest track to El Chalten in Argentina.  We aim to do this in a day because we like...
Fiambala to Puerto Montt

Fiambala to Puerto Montt

If I push my stomach out, and arch my back a bit, I can just about make my feet disappear, which is gratifying.  Such is the progress I have made over the past 10 days on Project “Fatten Up” ahead of the next phase of the trip, which starts from Puerto Montt on...
Belen to Monte Pissis

Belen to Monte Pissis

I’ve officially recovered from my previous efforts, thanks to a soothing balm of ice-cream and Stella Artois; it’s time to get back on the road.  The broken wire on my odometer has been fixed by a wizard at the motorbike shop, with a pair of pliers,...